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Travel story: Personal Highlights in Catalonia

Join me on a cycling journey filled with culture, culinary delights, and active moments beneath the autumn sun.
White hillside village overlooking blue Mediterranean bay in Catalonia, framed by green pine trees with distant mountains under clear sky.

Have you always wanted to explore mainland Spain by bike? That very desire is what led me to Catalonia and I made it happen.

In this travel story, I’m taking you along on my personal discovery tour through this multifaceted region. Along the way, I explored places that are also featured on our Catalonia Cycling Tour.

Come along for the ride: I’ll show you my personal highlights and give you an authentic taste of what awaits you in Spain.

White hillside village overlooking blue Mediterranean bay in Catalonia, framed by green pine trees with distant mountains under clear sky.

On the Greenway around Girona

My first day in the saddle takes my fellow travelers and me onto the “Greenway” - a former railway line now perfectly suited for cycling. The route winds through rolling hills, past ancient stone walls and tiny, almost deserted villages. Everything feels peaceful. The air is crisp, the sun pleasantly warm — it’s hard to believe autumn has already arrived.

At lunchtime, we stop at a restaurant known for its snail dishes - a true culinary experience and a delightful surprise. Each plate is thoughtfully prepared and perfectly seasoned. Paired with a glass of white wine, the moment tastes like pure joie de vivre. After lunch, we continue on, relaxed and content.

Refreshed after a shower, we set out to explore Girona on foot. The Old Town is a true gem: narrow alleys, historic walls, and a walkable city wall offering sweeping views over the rooftops. As I wander, I discover charming boutiques, artisan shops, and lively squares. It’s no wonder Girona served as a backdrop for scenes from Game of Thrones - the atmosphere feels suspended in time. The city is also home to many professional road cyclists, thanks to its proximity to the Pyrenees and the surrounding rolling terrain that creates ideal training conditions.

Aiming High: The Els Àngels Climb

The next morning brings a sporty challenge: the ascent to the summit of Els Àngels. Early on, there’s a noticeable mix of nerves and excitement within the group. The fastest rider completes the climb in 27 minutes - a time that motivates all of us, even if we don’t quite match it. I’m on my e-gravel bike and reach the top in 42 minutes, accompanied by laughter and plenty of encouragement along the way.

Cyclist riding on paved road lined with green trees under blue sky in Catalonia. Shadows cast on the road surface.

Every so often, I spot the word "NAFENT" spray-painted in large letters on the asphalt - a Catalan expression meaning "keep going." It fits our mood perfectly. Once at the top, we take in the magnificent views across the vast landscape before enjoying a thrilling, fast-paced descent.

The remainder of the day leads us through small villages where time seems to stand still. We take breaks in village squares, drink coffee, and chat with the locals. In the off-season, everything feels calm, relaxed, and almost meditative. Our hotel for the evening - a former flour mill in Torroella de Montgrí - still bears the traces of its history, beautifully integrated into the modern design.

Narrow cobblestone alley in Catalonia lined with historic stone houses, potted plants, and a church tower visible in the background.

Between Apple Orchards and the Mediterranean

The following day, our route first leads us through expansive apple orchards. The sweet scent of fruit hangs in the air, and soon the sea begins to shimmer on the horizon. When we finally reach the coast, there’s no holding back - shoes off, bikes parked, and straight into the water! Despite it being October, the Mediterranean is still a pleasant 66°F / 19°C. It feels like a little extension of summer.

Wide sandy beach in Catalonia with turquoise Mediterranean Sea, gentle waves, and green vegetation along the shoreline under blue sky.

After that refreshing break, the ride turns adventurous once more. In the Parc Natural del Montgrí, smooth gravel paths alternate with rocky sections. At times, the terrain is uneven enough to feel like mountain biking - and that’s exactly what makes it so enjoyable!

Two bicycles leaning against a wooden fence at a coastal viewpoint in Catalonia, with pine trees and blue Mediterranean Sea in the background.

A Touch of History: The "Dance of Death"

Catalonia impresses not only with its nature but also with its cultural depth. One tradition that particularly struck me is the “Dansa de la Mort” - the Dance of Death - in Verges. This medieval performance takes place each year on Maundy Thursday during Semana Santa (Holy Week). Dressed in black skeleton costumes, the dancers - mostly children - process through the village’s narrow streets, symbolizing the transience of life. The dance serves as a powerful reminder that death makes everyone equal - a mystical and deeply rooted expression of Catalan heritage. Although I didn’t witness it live this time, I’m fascinated by how vividly history and tradition continue to shape daily life here.

Another cultural highlight is the Dalí Museum in Figueres - a place full of imagination, eccentricity, and inspiration. The building itself is a work of art, with its golden statues and the famous eggs perched on the roof. Inside, you dive headfirst into Dalí’s surreal world: floating objects, distorted perspectives, and bizarre dreamscapes. It is an experience that lingers - a little bit crazy, completely fascinating, and a beautiful contrast to the quiet, natural stages of our journey.

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