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Travel Story: Around the IJsselmeer

A relaxed cycling vacation through the Netherlands
Female cyclist in turquoise jacket riding on paved dike path along IJsselmeer with traditional sailboat moored in canal and green marshland.

Together with my son Stefan, I set off on an eight-day Loop Tour "Around the IJsselmeer" – a route that takes us through some of the most beautiful regions in the Netherlands. Altogether, we cover 335 km by bike, exploring charming towns, diverse landscapes, and experiencing the warm hospitality of the Dutch people.

Female cyclist in turquoise jacket riding on paved dike path along IJsselmeer with traditional sailboat moored in canal and green marshland.

Harderwijk: A Historic Start to Our Tour

Our cycling vacation begins in the charming Hanseatic town of Harderwijk. Red-brick houses, classic gabled roofs, and winding alleyways create a unique atmosphere as we set out to explore. During a stroll through town, we visit the Grote Kerk, the old harbor, the Vismarkt, and the historic town hall – now a popular wedding venue with impressive wood-panelled walls.

A walk along the beach promenade feels almost Mediterranean, thanks in part to the many waterfront restaurants. We especially enjoy our evening at Restaurant Johannes, where we indulge in freshly prepared fish and soak in a breathtaking view of the harbor district.

A Feast for the Senses – A Country Made for Connoisseurs


The Netherlands is so much more than just cheese and windmills. Beyond the famous Gouda and Edam, we find a little cheese shop in Amsterdam selling truffle cheese – the perfect treat to bring home. And there’s no shortage of local breweries, inviting us to experience the Netherlands’ vibrant beer culture.

Hand with red nails sampling cheese cubes on a yellow plate in a Dutch cheese shop, with brown aprons and products visible in background.

From Harderwijk toward Naarden

We set out on our first stage in the rain, but it doesn’t dampen our spirits. With our rain gear on, we cycle through lush meadows, passing sheep, gentle streams, and wide-open fields. The beautifully designed cycling network makes every mile a breeze. And the sparkling water is always by our side.

Red brick cycling path in Plantagepark, Harderwijk, with cyclists, directional signs, street lamp, and green parkland under blue sky with clouds.

Amsterdam – The Venice of the North

After a night at the elegant Vesting Hotel in Naarden, we continue our journey toward Amsterdam. Along the way, we pass Muiderslot, a magnificent water castle perched on its own island. Reaching Amsterdam, we set off to explore the city by boat. The canals, a UNESCO World Heritage site, are steeped in history. The Keizersgracht and Herengracht captivate us with their grand, stately homes built on wooden piles. A visit to the Anne Frank House leaves a lasting impression – the exhibition offers a moving and intimate glimpse into the Frank family’s life.

Amsterdam canal lined with traditional Dutch houses, moored boats, and trees under a clear blue sky. People relax along the waterfront.

Quaint fishing villages full of charm

From Amsterdam, we cycle to Monnickendam, a picturesque lakeside village crisscrossed by charming waterways. We stop in a cozy café for a sandwich before continuing on to Volendam.

In Volendam, a lively fishing town, we stroll along the bustling harbor, passing colorful souvenir shops. Our route leads us on to Hoorn and finally to Enkhuizen – always accompanied by sweeping water views and countless sailboats gliding across Lake IJssel.

A culinary highlight awaits us in the evening: at Restaurant De80, I try kibbeling – crispy fried pieces of cod served with fries and salad. This classic Dutch dish is simply delicious.

Female cyclist in turquoise jacket with bicycle on paved path beside IJsselmeer, with green grass, blue water, and white clouds visible.

By Ferry to Friesland and Onward to Kampen

The next morning, a ferry carries us from Enkhuizen to Stavoren. Feeling refreshed, we continue on to Lemmer, where we savor snacks at the local beach club with a beautiful view of the shoreline – pure vacation bliss. From Lemmer, we cycle toward Kampen. The weather is mild and overcast but dry, making it perfect for cycling. We especially love the ride along the Kalenbergergracht, an idyllic waterway lined with quaint houses.

A scenic highlight is the Nationaal Park Weerribben-Wieden, which we pedal through for part of our route. The park’s marshes, lakes, and rare plant and animal life make it a paradise for nature lovers and birdwatchers. In Kampen, we cross an impressive bridge that rises to let ships pass – an unforgettable sight.

Traditional Dutch sailing barge Avalon moored along a tree-lined canal in Enkhuizen with historic brick buildings and a bridge in the background.

Return to Harderwijk

On the final day, our route leads us back to Harderwijk. One last time, we cycle past windmills – the perfect photo opportunity to cap off our tour.

Boats line up along the shore in the Brère marshland

Conclusion

Our Loop Tour around Lake IJssel was filled with vibrant cities, breathtaking nature, welcoming people, and unforgettable culinary discoveries. We especially loved being close to the water, the cultural highlights like Amsterdam and the Anne Frank House, and the many charming villages steeped in maritime tradition.

This tour is perfect for anyone wanting to explore the country in a relaxed yet active way – and a wonderful chance to experience the Netherlands from a fresh perspective.

 

My favorite place

Time and again along our route, we come across those iconic windmills – as we do in Kampen. Here, a peaceful spot invites us to pause and rest. We settle onto a bench, soaking in the tranquility and taking in the striking view. In this quiet moment, we marvel at the lovingly restored mill and all its charming details. Many of these windmills have been preserved especially for visitors, and to this day, they give the Dutch landscape its unmistakable character.


 

Cyclist in turquoise jacket and helmet sitting on picnic bench in front of traditional Dutch windmill under blue sky with white clouds.
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