Reisebericht: Loire Cycle Path

Six days, one river – and the essence of France

On the first five stages, Europe’s last wild river reveals itself at its very best. Rarely does a river flow so gently and freely as the Loire, spreading wide across its natural riverbed. Cycling along its banks, I pass through floodplain forests and blooming meadows, with the gentle gradient carrying me almost effortlessly towards each day’s destination. It’s easy to see why the Loire Valley has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

For six days, this cycling holiday offers a glimpse of the “real France”, far from the crowds. That said, the highlights are very much part of the experience. The famous Loire châteaux are just as much a part of the cycling route as the countless charming villages and towns along the way – many of them officially recognised as Petites Cités de Caractère.

Best of all, everything is perfectly organised and refreshingly easy. With Eurobike cycling holidays, I don’t have to worry about route planning or hotel bookings. The rental bike is simply returned at the final accommodation, luggage transfer is taken care of – and I can fully relax and enjoy cycling abroad without a care in the world.

Stage 1: Tours - Chinon

My journey begins in Tours, a half-timbered gem in the heart of the Loire Valley, whose old town is well worth exploring on foot. After just a few kilometres, a true classic awaits: Château de Villandry. Famous for its magnificent terraced gardens, this Renaissance château is a must-see on the Loire Cycle Path. The day ends in Chinon, watched over by its impressive fortress towering above the town.

Ornamental garden at Villandry with geometric boxwood hedges forming decorative patterns. View from stone terrace with balustrade under blue sky.

Stage 2: Chinon - Saumur

Day two leads through one of France’s most beautiful villages. Few places capture the authentic spirit of this region as perfectly as Candes-Saint-Martin, with its pilgrimage church framed by climbing roses.

Rather than taking a shortcut, it’s worth tackling a short climb to enjoy breathtaking views over the Loire straight from the vineyards. Back at river level, the route passes fascinating cave dwellings – and at one point even goes right through them. The day’s destination is Saumur, where yet another château and a charming old town invite exploration.

View of Parnay village along the Loire cycle route with green vineyards in foreground and stone church with tall spire behind historic buildings.

Touring bicycle parked on stone wall with pink flowers in front of Chinon Castle ruins. Medieval tower and crumbling walls under blue sky.

Red and white boat anchored on the Loire River with green vegetation in foreground and tree-lined shore under blue sky with white clouds.

Loire River near Saumur with large trees along the bank, wooden benches on a cycling path, and green meadows under a blue sky.

Château de Villandry with round tower and Renaissance architecture, viewed across green vineyard rows under blue sky with scattered clouds.

Stage 3: Saumur - Angers

The third day feels wonderfully rural, with the cycling route winding through small villages and quiet countryside. A surprising moment of adventure awaits at a river crossing: over the Authion, I pull myself across on a self-service ferry using a rope.

The stage ends in Angers, where the mighty château and its famous Apocalypse Tapestry are not to be missed – a true showstopper stretching over 100 metres. A tip: enjoy the calm of the castle café just before closing time, when the sound of pigeons’ wings echoes through the ancient walls. Later, the evening is best spent in one of the many lively student bars along the banks of the Maine.

White Gothic chapel with pointed arch windows in Angers castle gardens. Formal garden with geometric hedges and trimmed trees in foreground.

Stage 4: Angers - Saint-Florent-le-Vieil

Day four is all about nature, cycling through floodplain forests and meadows, past fishing villages and historic harbour towns. For quite some time, the route even runs across one of the largest islands in the Loire itself. The stage ends in the charming town of Saint-Florent-le-Vieil – or, as in my case, with an overnight stay in nearby Ancenis.

Passenger boat with bar docked on Loire River in Angers. Historic stone bridge with arches visible in background, tree-lined promenade on right.

Stage 5: Saint-Florent-le-Vieil - Nantes

If starting from Ancenis, day five is a relatively short stage, leaving plenty of time to explore Nantes, the former capital of Brittany. Once again, a magnificent château beckons, but the city centre also holds plenty of surprises. Nantes is full of beautiful squares just waiting to be discovered – the elegant Passage Pommeraye is a particular highlight.

But let’s be honest: most visitors come for the “Grand Éléphant”. Watching this larger-than-life mechanical creature stride across the Île de Nantes is pure spectacle – especially when it playfully sprays water from its trunk onto delighted onlookers.