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Travel story: Tauern loop tour

Our cycling tour through dramatic gorges, majestic mountains and sparkling waterfalls
Three cyclists riding on a gravel path along the Salzach cycle route near Rif, surrounded by green trees with mountains in the background.

There’s something truly special about setting off on the Tauern Loop Tour right from our doorstep in Obertrum. No long journey, no stressful packing at the train station - just hop on our bikes and go. My dad and I are on gravel bikes, my sister joins us for a day’s stage, also on a gravel bike. For our mom, we arranged an e-bike - perfect for soaking in the scenery, enjoying spontaneous stops, and taking it all in, while we set the pace and no one ever has to wait.

Three cyclists riding on a gravel path along the Salzach cycle route near Rif, surrounded by green trees with mountains in the background.

We’re off!

From the very first moment of our self-guided cycling tour, the Salzach River is our constant companion. We ride at a relaxed pace along the water, passing through peaceful forests, the charming towns of Hallein and Golling, and over gravel paths. Lush green meadows stretch out on both sides, yet there’s already a hint of autumn in the air. Some trees are still bursting with life, while others have started to let their first leaves fall. The mountains draw closer with every mile, and our excitement grows with each turn of the pedals.

Uphill, but absolutely beautiful

At some point, it’s not enough to just glide along. The Eurobike on Tour-App has already warned us - the first climb over Pass Lueg is waiting. We push through, breathless, laughing, cheering each other on, and when we finally reach the top, pride outweighs exhaustion.

Later, the route leads us past Werfen, and after a long first day in the saddle, we arrive in St. Johann im Pongau. In the evening, we gather around the table, tired from the miles, sharing a hearty meal and swapping stories from the day - a relaxed and perfect ending.

From the Liechtensteinklamm to Kaprun

The next morning, we’re looking forward to a shorter stage - but we’ve underestimated the elevation. Instead of long, easy stretches, the route rolls up and down, one hill after another. Still, it’s a dream come true. Tiny villages, gardens bursting with color, perfectly maintained cycling routes - and right in the middle, the legendary Liechtensteinklamm. The gorge is simply breathtaking, with torrents of water carving their way through ancient rock. On a perfect day, the colors are even more vivid- the moss glows emerald green, the water rushes by in brilliant blue and white. It’s easily one of my favorite places on the entire tour.

By day’s end, we roll into Kaprun, refuel with pizza, and soak in the spectacular view of the Kitzsteinhorn.

Helix-shaped metal staircase winding through Liechtensteinklamm gorge with moss-covered rock walls and visitors below.

Natural wonders and moments of pure indulgence

Another highlight is the ride on the Pinzgau Local Railway. The little train chugs gently through the valley, and our very own bike carriage feels almost like a stage set just for us and our bikes. A few years ago, a storm washed away parts of the single-track line, so the final stretch to Krimml is now covered by a shuttle. On the way back, you can still spot where the tracks once ran, or even ride along the old route.

In Krimml, nature puts on its most spectacular show - water plunges down in three dramatic tiers. We hike up a bit to take in the view from different angles. The day feels like a perfect blend of cycling tour and hiking adventure, and that’s exactly what makes it so special.

View of Krimml Waterfalls cascading down rocky cliffs, framed by tall coniferous trees in a misty mountain forest.

The well-earned reward at the end

The ride back to Kaprun is mostly downhill, winding past grazing cows and through cool, shady woods. And when your seat starts to feel a little sore after a few days? That’s when creativity kicks in - time to master riding hands-free on those long, straight stretches. 😉

In the evening, it’s all about Kasnockn and a cold Pinzga Zwickl - gathering around the table, reliving the day’s adventures, and soaking in the peaceful atmosphere.

Two cyclists with touring bikes stop on a gravel path to observe a brown cow resting beside the road. Dense forest and blue sky in background.

Postcard-perfect scenery and a refreshing plunge into icy waters

From day four, the Tauern Cycle Path follows the sparkling Saalach River, which stays by our side almost until the very end. We pedal between emerald meadows and trees ablaze with color - a constant dance between late summer and the first hints of fall.

Above Saalfelden am Steinernen Meer, we’re treated to a view that lingers long after: mountains, meadows, and sky coming together in a scene you’ll never forget. Zell am See is especially breathtaking - a place many guests from the Arab world call paradise. And it’s easy to see why: the turquoise lake shimmers at the foot of majestic peaks, a sight that leaves a lasting impression.

In Lofer, we do something you wouldn’t expect in September: we dive into the river. The Saalach is icy cold - what the locals call “zapfig.” But even in mid-September, the sun is strong enough to warm us up again, and the feeling afterward is simply unbeatable.

Cyclist in pink jacket resting by Zell am See lake with touring bikes. Mountain panorama and blue sky in background, lush greenery along shore.

Back at Home

On the final day, we rise early - the journey to Salzburg and back to Obertrum is a long one. In Bad Reichenhall, a flat tire briefly throws us off course, but with our emergency kit, we’re back on the road in just ten minutes, as if nothing happened.

Soon, familiar peaks appear: Untersberg to our right, Gaisberg in the distance. We know instantly that Salzburg is drawing near. Our legs are tired, our faces sun-kissed, but our spirits remain high. One last hearty lunch with my sister in Salzburg, then we set out for the final stretch.

Antheringer Berg is one last little challenge. Slowly but surely, we make our way up - and at the top, we know the finish line is close. Just a few minutes later, we’re back at our front door - tired, faces glowing with color, bikes parked, and deeply grateful for these unforgettable days.

Paved cycling path through green meadows leading towards Hohensalzburg Fortress on a hilltop, with mountains in the background under cloudy skies.
View Tauern Tour

Conclusion

The Tauern Loop Tour gave us everything: challenging climbs, effortless descents, thundering waterfalls, wild gorges, cozy evenings - and that wonderful feeling of exploring our home together.

My favorite Place

My favorite spot along the Tauern Loop Tour is the Liechtensteinklamm. Early in the morning, as the first rays of sunlight slip through the narrow cliffs, the air is filled with a magical, almost mystical energy. I’m always drawn to water - its movement, its power, its sound - and I could watch it carve its path for hours, completely lost in the moment. At the end of the gorge, the landscape suddenly opens up, and the light, the sun, and the waterfall fill you with pure vitality.

Three cyclists on viewing platform at Liechtensteinklamm gorge with tall waterfall cascading down rocky cliff in background.
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Three cyclists cycle past the Drachenwand rock formation on Lake Mondsee.
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