It’s July, and back home in Austria the temperature sits at a refreshing 59°F (15°C)—the perfect excuse to head south to South Tyrol. Full of energy and wanderlust, my friends, who join me on this journey every year, and I set off on our next cycling adventure from Merano to Lake Garda. Come along and experience the joy of being on the road, beautiful bike paths, and some of my personal highlights along the way!
The charming town of Merano welcomes us with palm trees, Art Nouveau villas, and a character all its own - somewhere between alpine down-to-earth charm and Mediterranean ease.
At Hotel Flora, we settle into our rooms; the rental bikes are already waiting in the hotel garage, and a friendly member of the reception team hands over our travel documents. A first shared toast on the terrace, a stroll along the Tappeinerweg with wonderful views over the town, a few final organizational details - and then there is nothing left but the anticipation of four beautiful days of cycling ahead.
South Tyrol shows itself at its very best on our first day of cycling, bathed in sunshine. Just beyond Merano, we follow the South Tyrolean Wine Road, riding through seemingly endless apple orchards framed by lush green mountains and flowering meadows. The paths are impeccably maintained and a pleasure to ride, and with the help of the Eurobike app, navigation is easy and effortless. Our first stop leads us to the Brandis Waterfall.
From there, we continue through Lana and on to small villages, passing old castles and crumbling ruins tucked into the steep landscape. Near Nals, we stop for lunch at Restaurant Pircher, where we enjoy a traditional South Tyrolean platter and a glass of wine before continuing on to Bolzano - a city known for its arcaded streets as well as the Ötzi Museum.
On the second day, we start by cycling along the Isarco River, later following the Adige all the way to Trento. Apple orchards once again line both sides of the path. From Salurn onward, the German-speaking region of South Tyrol comes to an end, and vineyards begin to dominate the landscape. The scenery takes on a distinctly Mediterranean feel: façades become more colorful, and the Italian influence is unmistakable.
Small villages with narrow streets invite us to pause and take in the surroundings. In the evening, Trento surprises us with its lively city center, where history, culture, and student life intersect. On the piazza, we savor a glass of Aperol while watching the vibrant scene unfold. The cathedral square is particularly striking, its historic backdrop drawing both locals and visitors to linger and soak up the atmosphere. The mood is relaxed - a perfect close to an eventful day of cycling.
The further south we ride, the more Mediterranean the scenery becomes: cypresses, fig trees, and olive trees now line the roadside. In Rovereto, the old Tyrolean border town, we pause briefly - it’s far too charming to simply ride past. Our personal culinary highlight comes a little later in Mori: Gelateria Bologna lives up to its reputation. The pistachio gelato is a dream - nutty, creamy, perfectly balanced. After that, the final kilometers to Lake Garda seem to fly by effortlessly.
The last stretch takes us over the small Passo San Giovanni - the only real climb of this entire self-guided cycling tour, but very manageable. And then, suddenly, it appears: Lake Garda, sparkling in the afternoon sun, framed by steep cliffs. A breathtaking sight. We coast down to Riva, dive straight into the lake, and in the evening, allow ourselves to be enchanted by the Mediterranean charm of the old town.
What would a journey be without the people you meet along the way? Whether it’s the friendly lady at the hotel in Bolzano, sharing her tips for the best gelato paired with the perfect Aperol, or the older German couple we ride alongside for part of the route - seasoned Eurobike travelers - their warmth and stories leave a lasting impression.
In the smaller towns, we especially sense the unique blend of Tyrolean tradition and Italian joie de vivre. Locals linger over their afternoon espresso, while elderly gentlemen gesture animatedly outside the cafés. Everywhere we go, we are welcomed with warmth, offered culinary treats, and treated as guests rather than tourists. There’s always a feeling of truly being at home.
The hotels are consistently charming, each special in its own way: Hotel Flora in Merano, with its beautiful Mediterranean garden; the Parkhotel in Bolzano, full of historic flair, like stepping back in time; the modern Hi Hotel in Trento - stylish and central, with a small wellness area; and finally, Hotel Mirage in Riva, just steps from the lakefront. In every hotel, the staff are always friendly and extremely helpful - a perfect combination for a relaxing cycling tour.
A detour that’s truly worthwhile: along the idyllic Brandiswaalweg near Lana, a short stroll leads to the romantic Brandis Waterfall. Surrounded by moss-covered rocks and vibrant greenery, the spot feels like a hidden natural paradise. The cool water, fresh air, and gentle murmur of the falls invite you to pause, let your legs dangle, and simply take it all in - a perfect moment to breathe deeply, unwind, and savor the beauty around you.
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