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Travel Story: Southern Styria

Cycling in the Country of Vines and Volcanoes
Cyclist with helmet and yellow handlebar bag standing with touring bike between green vineyard rows under blue sky in Südsteiermark.

After my recent cycling tours through Majorca and Veneto, I knew my next adventure had to be closer to home. While autumn was already making itself felt in Obertrum and the temperatures were dropping, I set out for the mild south, hoping to extend the summer just a little longer. The choice was easy: I opted for a tour based in one hotel in Southern Styria, where the Mediterranean-inspired climate was perfect for late-season cycling miles.

Cyclist with helmet and yellow handlebar bag standing with touring bike between green vineyard rows under blue sky in Südsteiermark.

The landscape of Southern Styria

Southern Styria is a picturesque region in southeastern Austria, often called the “Styrian Tuscany.” Its rolling hills are dotted with vineyards, orchards, and forests. The South Styrian Wine Road winds for about 25 kilometers through charming villages like Berghausen, Ratsch, and Glanz, sometimes tracing the border with Slovenia. The area is famous for its rustic wine taverns, outstanding wines such as Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling, and Muscat, and its renowned pumpkin seed oil. This region is simply perfect for extended cycling tours and hiking adventures.

The culinary scene in Styria

Many visitors are drawn to Southern Styria by its hearty local cuisine, creative gourmet dishes, and warm hospitality. As mentioned above, the region is renowned for its white wines. Traditional specialties include crispy fried chicken, a delicious cold platter, and the famous scarlet runner bean salad with pumpkin seed oil.

Outdoor table with traditional Austrian Jause featuring grilled sausages, salads, and sides on a wooden terrace overlooking South Styrian vineyards.

Our accommodation: Wirtshaus Troicher Genuss Pension Steirerland

A glance out the window, a smile on my face. The reason? Beautiful, warm weather awaits us on the day of our arrival. After breakfast, my wife Maria and I hop in the car, feeling energized as we head to Mureck. When we arrive, Mansuet Troicher, the owner, welcomes us personally. The staff brings our luggage to the room and treats us to a welcome drink. The autumn and wine festival is also taking place. We stroll into the garden, where the senior owner greets us and leads us to our table. There’s music, delicious food, and exquisite wines to sample. We’re already looking forward to the days ahead.

Traditional Austrian guesthouse Wirtshaus Troicher with green awnings and outdoor seating area, framed by olive branches under blue sky in Mureck.

Across the border into Slovenia

The day begins with a beautifully prepared breakfast, offering everything you could wish for: fresh bread, cheese, cold cuts, sunny-side-up eggs, scrambled eggs, yogurts, a variety of jams, honey, and fresh fruit. Then, it’s finally time to set out on our tour. The weather is gorgeous, and we want to make the most of the sunshine, so instead of heading to the spa in Bad Radkersburg, we take advantage of our based in one hotel tour and choose which route to start with. Today, we begin with the tour to our neighbors in Slovenia.

Starting from our accommodation in Mureck, we cross the Mur River and head straight over the border into Slovenia. Gentle hills are always part of the journey, but with our e-bikes, they’re no challenge at all. During a short break, we soak in the stunning views. We cycle along beautiful paths and return to our accommodation after about 30 kilometers in the late afternoon. Before freshening up, we enjoy two glasses of Sauvignon Blanc and look forward to dinner at the Troicher family’s inn. Afterwards, a stroll through Mureck rounds off the day.

Bicycle with yellow panniers beside a wooden welcome sign reading 'Dobrodošli Willkommen Welcome' in front of green vineyard rows under blue sky.

South Styrian Wine Road – to Gamlitz

Once again, we’re greeted by beautiful weather and pleasant temperatures. Right after breakfast, we set off. Mansuet Troicher has already loaded our e-bikes into his vehicle, as today’s destination is the South Styrian Wine Road and a local winery. The grape harvest is in full swing, with many people helping to pick the grapes. We’re invited to join a wine tasting and listen closely as the winemaker shares his stories. Of course, we sample several varieties and are truly impressed by their quality. Then it’s back on the bikes, cycling along the scenic paths of the wine road. We pause often to soak in the views of the vineyards and snap plenty of photos before heading to Gamlitz. There, we linger for a while, enjoy another glass of wine, and simply savor the day. Late in the afternoon, we return to Mureck and indulge in a delicious dinner at the inn.

Cyclist with helmet and yellow panniers standing with touring bike among green vineyard rows in South Styria under blue sky.

Bad Radkersburg Spa

With heavy rain forecast for Wednesday, we decided to leave the bikes in the cellar and head to the spa instead. Since the full-day admission is included, we spent the day relaxing in the thermal pools and sauna. That’s the big advantage of a based in one hotel tour with Eurobike!

The Styrian capital Graz

Thursday greets us with sunshine and warmer temperatures, so after breakfast we hop on the train from Mureck to Graz. Once in Graz, we cycle through the picturesque old town, then head to the Mur Island, a shell-shaped structure connecting both banks of the river. We enjoy a coffee on the island before getting back on our bikes and starting the journey home. Following the Mur, we ride nearly 70 kilometers along beautiful cycling routes toward Mureck. At the inn, we celebrate the golden autumn day with beer and wine alongside a delicious evening meal.

Graz Clock Tower on a hill surrounded by lush gardens with colorful flowers. Visitors walk on the lawn under a blue sky with white clouds.

To Straden for pumpkin seed oil

It seems we’ve landed almost the perfect week. Today, the sun is shining again, and it’s even warmer than yesterday. Just a few miles into the day’s ride comes my personal highlight of this based in one hotel tour: Pechmann’s Old Oil Mill. The sheer variety here is astonishing - vintage military vehicles, tractors, motorcycles, planes, helicopters, and it’s a favorite spot for bikers to take a break. There are plenty of motorcyclists stopping by, and for kids, the many animals (dromedaries, buffalo, turtles, pigs, rabbits, goats, and more) and a small playground are a real treat. The food is excellent and reasonably priced. Last but not least, we watched how pumpkin seed oil is pressed the traditional way, tasted the freshly pressed oil, and brought a bottle home with us.

Historic wooden building with thatched roof and sun decoration in Ratschendorf. Sign reads 'Mostschenke im Gewölbe Pechmann's alte Ölmühle'.
Cluster of white grapes hanging on a vine in Gamlitz, with rows of green grapevines stretching across rolling hills in the background.

Conclusion

Before the tour, I’d heard so much about Southern Styria: not just its stunning scenery, but also its outstanding cuisine and fantastic cycling routes. Gentle hills, charming villages, and impressive vineyards—this week proved every word true.

Special mention goes to Mansuet Troicher and the entire team, who anticipated every wish. Each evening brought a surprise menu featuring local ingredients, from crispy fried chicken and fish to a variety of meats, beef and veal slices with pumpkin purée, polenta, and chanterelle mushrooms.

This based in one hotel tour is a true highlight in Austria. My wife and I are certain this won’t be our last visit to Southeastern Styria.

My favorite place

Pechmann’s Old Oil Mill is a true highlight for any traveler in Southern Styria. This charming Buschenschank is brimming with discoveries-  a unique open-air museum unlike any other. And the best part: you can soak in all these impressions free of charge. It’s incredible how much care and attention to detail has gone into creating this vibrant, multifaceted oasis. There’s nothing you won’t find here, and the sense of wonder never fades.

Interior of motorcycle museum in Ratschendorf with vintage bikes, mannequins, and international flags on wooden beamed ceiling.
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