Travelogue Castles of the Loire

The Journey begins – From Blois to Amboise

We set out on the first stage of our journey on a Sunday, hopping on our rental bikes for the 43-kilometer ride from Blois to Amboise. Our goals for the day are simple and clear: complete the route, visit at least one château, of which there are many, and enjoy a glass or two of fine French wine.

The ride begins through peaceful countryside, with endless fields of oats and wheat flanking quiet backroads and bike paths. We’re especially captivated by the Loire River itself, stretching nearly 1,000 kilometers, it’s the longest river in France that flows into the Atlantic.

Our cultural highlight of the day is the Château de Chaumont, roughly halfway to Amboise. This fairytale château impresses with its magnificent gardens, exquisite Flemish tapestries, colorful floor tiles in the council chamber, and beautifully detailed medallions in the library. Saturated with impressions, we arrive at our “Hotel Bellevue” by the Loire and wind down with a delicious sea bass, a pitcher of Sauvignon Blanc at “L’Ambacia,” and the cheerful melodies of an accordion player in the pedestrian zone.

From Amboise to Tours

Today’s stage of our self-guided cycling journey from Amboise to Tours is the shortest, at just under 30 kilometers. On the agenda are two more châteaux we want to explore in detail: Amboise Castle and Clos-Lucé, the manor house where Leonardo da Vinci lived.

After cycling the 30 kilometers, we arrive in Tours and check into the elegant Hilton Garden Inn. Following a leisurely stroll through the old town and a visit to the cathedral, we spend the evening enjoying good food and drink at Le Capuccino.

Onward from Tours to Chinon

After checking out, we take another stroll through the old town to visit the Cathedral of St. Martin, which was elevated to the status of a basilica by Pope Paul II.

Today is one of the most challenging days of our tour: the ride from Tours to Chinon is nearly 65 kilometers long, and the route includes several climbs and strong headwinds that make for a demanding journey.

We combine our break with a visit to the late Renaissance Château de Villandry on the Cher River—famously known as the "Castle of Gardens." While the château’s rooms are richly furnished, it's the gardens that truly take our breath away: a classical Renaissance masterpiece spread across three levels. At the top is the sun and water garden, at the château’s foundation level lies the ornamental flower garden, and at the lowest level, the world’s largest decorative kitchen garden, featuring vegetables, herbs, and spices arranged in intricate patterns.

For us, Villandry is the most beautiful garden we’ve seen so far. After checking into the charming, typically French family-run Hotel Diderot—where we’ll be staying for two nights—we enjoy a fish dish at Café des Arts Chinon and let the day wind down.

Active holidaymakers walk along the lavender trail

Fabulous Loop Tour from Chinon to Fontevraud and Back

On the fourth day of cycling, we set out on a loop tour from Chinon to Fontevraud and back—covering nearly 55 kilometers and featuring a challenging uphill stretch of 6 to 7 kilometers leading to the abbey.

In Candes-Saint-Martin, a picturesque village on the banks of the Vienne and officially one of the plus beaux villages de France, we visit the pilgrimage church of Saint Martin. Legend has it the saint passed away at this very spot. Just a few steps further, we take a short detour to the elegant Château de Montsoreau, perched just beyond the confluence of the Vienne and Loire rivers. Our route continues through the charming town of Turquant and the wine village of Souzay-Champigny before we tackle the uphill road to Fontevraud Abbey. The ascent to what was once Europe’s largest abbey is demanding but richly rewarding, as we explore a magnificent Romanesque church with a vast nave and four domes, the chapter house, and one of France’s most beautiful cloisters.

That evening, we enjoy dinner at the delightful Un air d’autan, a small French restaurant where we happen to be the only non-locals—a truly authentic experience.

Church of Saint Martin in Tours from the inside

Pedaling onward toward Azay-le-Rideau

Stage 5 covers 40 kilometers from Chinon to Azay-le-Rideau, expertly completed in just two hours.

At the town’s entrance, we’re welcomed by L’îlot Café Retro, an open-air spot on the Indre River, where we indulge in a rich and varied gourmet cheese platter. For a full hour, we soak up the essence of France by the riverside. After checking into the excellent Le Grand Monarque hotel—converted from a stable and with rooms named after French towns—we explore the stunning water château of Azay-le-Rideau and its gardens.

In the evening, we settle into L’Odette’s Restaurant and Crêperie to savor a delicious and diverse selection of crêpes.

Cyclist enjoys a fine cheese platter in France

Next stop Chenonceaux

By now comfortably accustomed to cycling, we follow the scenic Indre bike path and later trace the Cher River toward Chenonceau, covering the 65-kilometer moderately challenging and gently rolling route in just about three hours.

The day’s highlight is the enchanting Château de Chenonceau, which we explore at leisure for three hours with an audio guide. Often hailed as the Loire’s most exquisite château, it captivates with its elegant 60-meter-long gallery stretching gracefully over the river, richly adorned salons and chambers filled with priceless furniture and art, and beautifully manicured gardens.

After our immersive visit, pleasantly tired, we arrive at the charming “Clair Cottage.” Here, we savor a delicious Creole filet, inspired by colonial cuisine, before settling in for a restful night.

Back on Two Wheels to Our Starting Point: Blois

Stage 7: Back to Blois—50 Kilometers Along the Cher and Loire. For our seventh stage, we set off from the village of Chisseaux, cycling a pleasant 50 kilometers back to our starting point, Blois. We follow the gentle flow of the Cher River before rejoining the Loire, enjoying the timeless beauty of the French countryside.

Once back in Blois, we take another tour of the Château Royal de Blois, this time guided by a tablet that reveals its rich blend of architectural styles—Gothic, Late Gothic, Renaissance, and Late Renaissance—all standing side by side.

As evening falls, we return to the French Italian restaurant La Scaleta, where the excellent cuisine delights us once more, a fitting end to a day full of history and charm.

Active holidaymakers in front of Blois Castle

The Grand Finale at Château de Chambord

After a leisurely breakfast, we set off, slightly behind schedule, on the final stage of this Eurobike Original Tour. We cycle a scenic loop to Château de Chambord, covering approximately 55 kilometers along the way.

The UNESCO World Heritage site was described by Henry James as “truly royal.” The grandeur of the château, its fairy-tale towers, and the elegant gardens certainly live up to the poet’s words.

In the evening, drawn once again by the excellent quality and charming atmosphere, we return to “La Scaletta.” There, we savor delicious pasta with scampi and salmon, perfectly paired with an excellent wine.

As we unwind in the bar with a cocktail in hand, we reflect on our journey and agree that we’ve been truly fortunate with the weather—twelve days without a drop of rain. The rides have challenged us physically, the French cuisine has spoiled our palates, and we’ve had the privilege of discovering the land, its people, and the magnificent châteaux. Our historical horizons have expanded beyond measure. Tomorrow, we begin our journey home. Allez, au revoir la France!

A key support on our journey was the careful planning by the Eurobike team. Their expertise laid the foundation for a seamless and unforgettable vacation. We’re truly grateful to the dedicated and skilled staff whose professionalism and passion helped make this adventure so special.