Travel Story: Porto - Lisbon

A Comfy Arrival in Porto

We first arrive at our hotel, Vila Galé Porto Ribeira, which will be our home in Porto for two additional nights.

Porto, the largest city in northern Portugal, grew wealthy during the Age of Discoveries, when sailors and merchants returned from the New World with gold and diamonds. Later, the city became renowned for port wine and flourished thanks to its lively wine trade.

We cycle along the Douro, following the banks of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia, admiring the famous bridges and striking architecture. After a stroll across the Ponte Luís I, we enjoy an exclusive port wine tasting. During our city walk, we discover magnificent churches, historic buildings, intricate azulejos, and the legendary bookstore Livraria Lello. Culinary delights like pastéis de nata and regional wines complete the experience.

In the evening, the Ribeira fishing quarter comes alive, and from the impressive iron bridge, we are treated to an unforgettable view of the river and the old town. Our day concludes with a traditional dinner, including the classic Portuguese dessert, Doce de Bolacha.

From Porto to the Atlantic: Our First Stage

We bid farewell to Porto and collect our e-bikes after a brief introduction from our personal on-site guide. Our first stage takes us 47 kilometers along the Douro River all the way to the Atlantic coast. Ahead lies the sparkling sea, behind us the bustling city of Porto.

We cycle through rolling dunes and fragrant pine forests, past white sandy beaches and lively towns where locals are joyfully celebrating São João. Along the way, we pause to enjoy a delicious omelet with shrimp, accompanied by a glass of crisp white wine from the Douro Valley.

By late afternoon, we reach Furadouro, settle into our charming boutique hotel, and round off the day with grilled sardines, rich chocolate mousse, and more of the region’s delightful white wine.

Bike path at the footbridge in Furadouro

Cyclist with rental bike on the Atlantic coast in Furadouro

Beach Dreams and a Natural Paradise to the “Venice of Portugal”

The 41-kilometer stage from Furadouro to Aveiro is divided into three sections.

First, we cycle 28 kilometers along quiet country roads from Furadouro to São Jacinto. Along the way, we pass Praia Torrao do Lameiro, with its endless stretches of sand and pine forests, and Praia da Torreira, which runs for 25 kilometers along the coast. In the Reserva Natural das Dunas de São Jacinto, we pause briefly on our self-guided journey. The dunes, pine woods, freshwater ponds, and marshes form a paradise for migratory birds and species that spend the winter here.

From Jacinto, we take a 15-minute ferry crossing, enjoying the wait with a bowl of fish soup and a Portuguese non-alcoholic Super Bock beer, at the harbor restaurant.

The final 13 kilometers to Aveiro follow flat, scenic bike paths. In the “Venice of Portugal,” we glide along the canals on a boat ride, admire the salt pyramids, Art Nouveau facades, and the bustling fish market. The day concludes with bacalhau at the restaurant A Nossa Casa, paired with crisp white wine from the Douro Valley.

Colorful Palheiros and Our First Dip in the Cool Atlantic

The 38-kilometer stage from Aveiro to Praia de Mira follows flat, scenic bike paths and is easy to manage, leaving plenty of time for a detour to Costa Nova and a refreshing swim in the Atlantic. Costa Nova sits on a narrow sandbar and offers two contrasting coastlines: a calm lagoon side with a small harbor and the famous striped houses, and a wide Atlantic-facing beach with golden sand and lively waves.

The palheiros, once simple fishermen’s huts, now gleam in bright colors and are among Portugal’s most photographed sights. We stroll along the promenade, admire the charming row of houses, and pick up a few high-quality souvenirs.

In Praia de Mira, we check in to the four-star hotel Macarico Beach. The broad, sandy beach beckons for our first dip in the Atlantic – the water is still cool, and the waves roll high. The day concludes in style with an exquisite seafood dinner at the restaurant Salgaboca.

Row of traditional palheiros houses with colorful vertical stripes in Costa Nova. Palm trees and parked cars visible in front, under clear sky.

A Challenge with a View

The 49-kilometer stage from Praia de Mira to Figueira da Foz is one of the most demanding of our journey. The first 30 kilometers lead us along a straight road through a dune landscape dotted with Mediterranean scrub, sand, and clusters of pine trees. Gentle hills and strong headwinds put our endurance to the test. At Lagoa da Vela, we pause to admire a vast carpet of water lilies shimmering on the lagoon’s surface.

The second section excites with two steep climbs at Murtinheira along a spectacular coastal road. Stunning viewpoints and the exhilarating descent toward Figueira da Foz make every effort worthwhile. From the Miradouro Cabo Mondego, we are rewarded with a breathtaking panorama of the city. We savor shrimp and a glass of white wine before the golden sands of Praia do Cabedelo invite us for a refreshing swim.

Finally, we arrive at the Costa de Prata Hotel, perfectly situated on the beach. We round off the day with dorade and white wine - a fitting finale to this challenging but unforgettable stage.

From the City of Kings to the Harbor Charm of Cascais

Thursday begins with a scenic two-hour drive from Figueira da Foz to Sintra, where our 41-kilometer stage to Cascais awaits. Before setting off, we explore Sintra, the City of Kings, visiting the National Palace, the Palácio Valenças, and the Moorish Castle. The National Palace, with its striking towers and magnificent halls, captivates just as much as the romantic elegance of the Palácio Valenças.

Then it’s time to mount the e-bikes. Steep climbs, tight switchbacks, and busy traffic demand our full attention. After the Moorish Castle, a thrilling descent toward the Atlantic rewards us - a true highlight of the day. A small cove tempts us with a refreshing swim in the warmer waters, complemented by a cold beer.

In Cascais, we check in to the elegant Hotel Baía, perfectly situated on the harbor. The town delights with sandy beaches, beautiful villas, and a lively atmosphere. We round off the day at the seafood restaurant Mariscaria, savoring gilt-head bream and white wine - a fitting end to a varied and unforgettable stage.

Final Stretch on the Tagus: From Cascais to Lisbon

After breakfast with views of the harbor and the sea, we set off on our final stage: 40 kilometers from Cascais to Lisbon. The route follows bike paths and quiet side roads, offering breathtaking panoramas of the Atlantic and the Tagus - a truly memorable highlight. After a brief stop at a nautically themed café, we arrive in Belém, the historic heart of Lisbon.

Belém embodies Portugal’s golden era as a nation of explorers. The Monument of the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos) honors Prince Henry the Navigator and other great figures such as Vasco da Gama and Ferdinand Magellan. The Torre de Belém, built in 1520 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, once served as a harbor defense, prison, and customs post. Although it is currently closed for renovation, the surrounding park and the nearby Mosteiro dos Jerónimos impress even more. The monastery is considered a masterpiece of the Manueline style and houses Vasco da Gama’s sarcophagus. Particularly captivating is the two-story cloister, adorned with Oriental and Moorish elements.

From Belém, we cycle along the Tagus and through the harbor to the Hotel Olissippo Oriente in eastern Lisbon, where we settle in for two additional nights. The location is ideal, putting us right where the city’s charm and vibrant life can be explored to the fullest.

A Day of History and Vibrance in Lisbon

We start early, taking the metro into the city center - a breeze thanks to our hotel’s convenient location. With a 24-hour ticket in hand, we make our way to Castelo de São Jorge. The climb through the narrow streets of old Lisbon is impressive, and the fortress towers majestically over the city, offering one of the most breathtaking views. As we wander through the ruins and gardens, the battlements and towers stand as silent witnesses to Lisbon’s rich and turbulent history.

Riding the historic Tram 28 is an absolute must. The yellow cars, dating back to the 1930s, rattle along narrow streets and negotiate steep curves. Along the route, we pass iconic landmarks such as the Basilica da Estrela, the Sé Cathedral, and the Praça do Comércio. When a car briefly blocks the tracks, the locals spring into action to help - a wonderfully authentic and unforgettable experience!

Next, we explore Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood, a labyrinth of winding streets brimming with history and life. By chance, we arrive during the finale of the 14-day street festival honoring Saint Anthony, alive with music, dancing, grilled sardines, and a jubilant atmosphere.

To finish the day, we visit a quaint sardine shop. Here, fish lovers can pick up the perfect gift: canned sardines marked with the year or in a variety of creative flavors - a charming local tradition that captures the spirit of Lisbon.

Two people on a boat on the Tejo River with the red 25 de Abril Bridge spanning across the water under a clear blue sky in Lisbon.

A Final Stroll Through Lisbon’s Splendor and History

From the boat, we admire the city’s skyline: the Belém district with its Torre de Belém, the Monument of the Discoveries, and the Jerónimos Monastery, the CCB cultural center, the Christ the King statue, and the impressive 25 de Abril Bridge. The CCB captivates with its modern architecture, concert halls, and exhibitions, while the MAAT along the Tagus impresses with its striking façade and contemporary art.

The Ponte 25 de Abril evokes memories of the Carnation Revolution and offers breathtaking views, as does the towering Cristo Rei statue high above the Tagus. We soak in the atmosphere before taking the metro back to the hotel, quickly packing and heading to the airport. With a gentle sense of melancholy, we bid farewell to Lisbon and return to Austria.

A wooden walkway on a leafy cliff with a view of houses and the sea

Fazit

An incredible and diverse adventure comes to an end, leaving us with unforgettable memories of Portugal’s maritime charm, sporting highlights, rich culture, history, vibrant flora, fascinating geology, and exquisite cuisine.

We delight in fish prepared in every imaginable way, succulent prawns, a glass or two of white wine from the Douro Valley- and, of course, the timeless port wine.

It was our first time flying to Portugal, our first experience on e-bikes, and our first dip in the Atlantic. We are enchanted by the lively atmosphere and the warm hospitality everywhere we go. Obrigado, Portugal - we will be back!

Cyclists in front of the Remodelado tram in Lisbon