A Culinary Cycling Tour Through Bavaria

True Bavarian Hospitality

Where better to experience Bavarian conviviality than in a traditional Wirtshaus? Though it’s a popular cliché, the cozy guesthouses truly live by the motto “Hock di her” (meaning “pull up a chair”). Here, locals and visitors alike gather around the big table to chat about everything under the sun.

Bavarians love meeting their friends for a beer at the regulars’ table or enjoying a game of Schafkopf (a traditional card game). In a classic Bavarian beer garden, there’s no obligation to order food—you can simply enjoy a cold beer to unwind after a long day. That’s genuine Bavarian hospitality at its best.

Weißwürste with Sweet Mustard – But Only Until Noon

When you think of Bavaria, you probably think of Weißwurst. The traditional Weißwurst breakfast—with sweet mustard, pretzels, and a Weißbier—is a must when visiting Munich. But did you know that Weißwurst actually originated in France? Sausages made from finely minced veal, pork, and bacon, seasoned with salt, have been known there since the 14th century. The Weißwurst in its current form was invented by Joseph Moser, the butcher and innkeeper at “Zum ewigen Licht” on Munich’s Marienplatz, on Carnival Sunday in 1857. He ran out of sheep casings and had to use pig casings instead. Because pig casings are more likely to burst when fried, he decided to boil the sausages instead.

How to Truly Enjoy Weißwurst the Traditional Way.

For the purists, savoring Weißwurst is almost a ritual. Traditionally, the sausage is first dipped in sweet mustard, then carefully slipped out of its delicate casing—never eaten with the skin on. There are a few ways to do this: the simple method involves making a lengthwise cut to release the tender meat. The more skilled prefer the cross-cut—cutting diagonally and twisting free—leaving behind a beautiful diamond pattern, a sign of true expertise. And for the absolute traditionalists? Well, they suck the sausage meat right out of the casing—no utensils needed!

If you want to blend in like a local, remember to order Weißwurst only until noon. This tradition dates back to the days before refrigeration, when fresh sausages had to be eaten before the midday bell to ensure they were enjoyed at their best.

Schweinebraten & Schweinshaxe – Bavarians Love Their Hearty Fare.

Traditional Bavarian cuisine dates back to farming times when hard fieldwork was the norm. In the summer, haymaking was essential to provide feed for the animals on the farm. Naturally, the animals were also slaughtered and processed on-site. This lifestyle demanded a lot of energy, so the food was meant to provide the necessary strength and stamina.

Schweinebraten (Roast Pork) and Schweinshaxe (Pork Knuckle) are classic examples of hearty Bavarian tavern cuisine. The Bavarian Schweinebraten should be juicy, tender, and topped with a crispy crust—known locally as the Krusperl. Served with a rich sauce and Knödel (dumplings), it’s a beloved Sunday classic. Good flavor takes time and quality ingredients. This dish isn’t for the impatient, as the meat spends about three hours in the oven to become tender and develop that perfect crust. The roast reaches its peak when served with a beer sauce. Both light and dark beers—or even a Weißbier (wheat beer)—work well for this, as long as the sauce isn’t sweet.

The Schweinshaxe is also an essential part of Bavarian cuisine. To get the crust perfectly crispy, a fattier section of the leg is needed—usually the part between the elbow or knee joint and the ankle. Before roasting or grilling, it’s rubbed with spices. Then it spends several hours in the oven. The Schweinshaxe is done when the crust is crisp and the meat almost falls off the bone on its own. It’s traditionally served with Semmelknödel (bread dumplings) or Kartoffelknödel (potato dumplings), a rich dark beer sauce, and sides like Sauerkraut, Radi (radish), and mustard.

Man enjoying pork knuckle with beer in a Bavarian beer garden

München Tourismus/Christian Kasper

What Goes With It? – Classic Bavarian Sides

Bayerisch Kraut

Bayerisch Kraut is made from white cabbage or pointed cabbage and comes from a time when cabbage was a staple food, served several times a week.

The cabbage is cut into thin strips or diamond shapes and slowly cooked with fat, water, caraway seeds, and a bit of sugar until tender. Bayerisch Kraut tastes best alongside bratwurst, Schweinebraten or Surhaxe (smoked pork knuckle).

Semmelknödel

Semmelknödel (bread dumplings) are the perfect side for many hearty dishes. Originally a poor man’s food made to use up old rolls or white bread, they’ve become a staple in Bavarian cooking. There are many variations—like Brezenknödel, made from pretzel dough, which has a stronger flavor than regular Semmelknödel. If you have some bacon on hand, it’s often rendered and mixed into the dumpling dough for extra flavor.

Semmelknödel also make a quick and tasty snack. Just slice leftover dumplings and fry them in a pan. Serve with a fried egg and green salad for a simple but delicious dinner. Or enjoy them as Essigknödel—dumplings served with onions and a tangy vinegar and oil dressing—perfect for a traditional snack.

Brotzeit — Anytime, Anywhere.

Brotzeit—a traditional Bavarian snack—is simply unforgettable. What’s served varies with personal taste, but one thing’s certain: it’s always laid out on a rustic wooden cutting board. Originally, it was the farmers’ second breakfast, eaten out in the fields to recharge their energy. Back then, simplicity ruled—just hearty food and hard-earned hunger. Today, Brotzeit is enjoyed anytime, whether as a relaxed afternoon picnic with friends or a casual evening in the beer garden. A Brotzeit is always welcome and truly cherished.

Everything your heart (and stomach) desires is piled high on this lovingly arranged platter. You’ll find sausages and cheese, radi (a fancy Bavarian radish) and regular radishes, spreads, cold cuts, Leberkäse (think finely ground Bavarian baked sausage loaf), and even meat patties. Feeling extra hungry? Enjoy them warm with a side of mashed potatoes. And of course, there’s always a cold, refreshing beer ready to wash it all down — because everything’s better with Bavarian beer.

We’d like to introduce you to a classic Brotzeit favorite: Obatzter. The name comes from the regional term “anbatzen,” meaning to mix or mash leftover cheese together. Its exact origins are a bit of a mystery, but it’s said that in the 1920s, a hostess named Katharina Eisenreich served this delicious spread to her guests at the Weihenstephaner Bräustüberl in Freising. Obatzter is made by blending overripe soft cheeses like Camembert or Brie with butter, onions, and paprika until it becomes a creamy, spreadable delight. It’s best enjoyed with hearty bread or a salty pretzel.

A Sweet Treat – Classic Bavarian Desserts

Auszogne

Auszogne are a beloved Bavarian pastry, traditionally served at Kirchweih (church consecration festivals) marking the end of the farming year, as well as at festive occasions like communions and weddings. According to local lore, the airy yeast dough was once stretched over the baker’s knee until it became paper-thin in the center—hence the nickname Knienudeln (“knee noodles”).

The dough is fried in hot lard until golden brown and crisp. Unlike round, filled Krapfen, Auszogne are more understated: served unfilled and simply dusted with powdered sugar. During the holiday season, a touch of cinnamon is added for a festive flair.

Bayerische Creme

Bayerische Creme is a delicate vanilla custard, lightened with whipped cream and set with gelatin. This classic dessert is often served with fruit compote, fresh berries, or a splash of strawberry sauce.

Its origins are still up for debate. Some say it dates back to the 14th century, created at the court of the Duke of Bavaria-Ingolstadt. Others believe it’s a Bavarian take on Crème brûlée, brought to the region during Napoleon’s occupation.

Auszogne with icing sugar on a wooden board

erlebe.bayern - Guido Schmelich

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