Travel Story: Madeira Loop Tour

Arriving in Madeira

Our arrival on the island in Portugal is impressive right from the start. From the plane, we can already make out Madeira’s signature rugged coastline and forested hills. After landing, it’s a quick taxi ride to our first stop in Caniço - a wonderful four-star hotel located right on the coast. With the whole afternoon ahead of us, we take the opportunity to explore the Caniço area on foot. Before dinner, we meet with our Eurobike representative for a detailed briefing on the upcoming tour. Now, we’re officially ready for the first leg of the journey.

A Relaxed Warm-Up to Kick Things Off

For our first stage, we’re picked up by our guest services representative, Miguel. Since the volcanic island of Madeira is very hilly and threaded with tunnels, the first three stages each begin with a transfer. Miguel - a consistently friendly, good-humored Portuguese local - makes sure our luggage is already waiting at the next hotel at the end of each stage.

For our Madeira Loop Tour, we opted for Rental Bike PLUS - and what a difference it makes. With top-notch components and a perfectly tuned setup, even the short, punchy climbs feel effortless, letting us focus on the scenery and the ride.

After a short test ride, we set off with excitement on our first stage from Camacha to Porto da Cruz. The route takes us along quiet roads through untouched eucalyptus forests and sleepy villages. Even when a few raindrops catch us here and there, we know that just around the next bend the sun will be shining again. After several short climbs and descents, we arrive at the Miradouro da Portela viewpoint, rewarded with a breathtaking view of the Eagle Rock.

The highlight of the stage, however, comes at the very end: several kilometers of exhilarating downhill riding, finishing in the picturesque coastal village of Porto da Cruz. A dip in the famous seawater pools is still a bit too chilly for us, but a long walk along the coast followed by dinner right by the water makes for the perfect end to our first stage.

Cyclist in red jacket riding on a curved mountain road in Madeira, surrounded by lush green mountains and trees under a blue sky.

Person in red jacket walking on grassy coastal path in Madeira with dramatic cliff, ocean waves, and scattered houses on hillside near Porto da Cruz.

Road sign marking Porto da Cruz on a winding coastal road in Madeira, with mountains, vegetation, and dramatic cloudy sky in the background.

Cyclist with yellow panniers at coastal viewpoint overlooking Porto da Cruz village, dramatic cliff, and Atlantic Ocean under cloudy sky.

Through the Madeiran Jungle

After Miguel greets us with a cheerful “Hi, bikers!” he drives us to Santana, the starting point for the second leg of our island tour. He couldn’t have picked a better spot - stepping off the bike, we’re right next to the Casas de Colmo, the region’s iconic thatched-roof houses. Leaving Santana behind, we quickly find ourselves immersed in a breathtaking landscape.

Steep green gorge Ribeira do Inferno in Madeira with lush vegetation on rocky cliffs, a bridge spanning the valley, and a road tunnel entrance.

The surrounding forests make it feel like we’re pedaling straight through a South American jungle. Flowers that only grow in greenhouses back home flourish along the roadside here. Beyond these botanical highlights, we finally get to give our bike’s low gears a proper workout. After a steady 500-meter (approx. 1,600 ft) climb, we reward ourselves with a handful of gummy bears in a small mountain village. But we don’t celebrate just yet - according to the elevation profile, two more climbs are still ahead. So, the gummy bears go back into the handy handlebar bag, and we push on.

When we reach what look like the second and third climbs, a surprise awaits: instead of grinding over the towering hills, we glide comfortably through two tunnels. And just when we think the ride couldn’t get better, the path opens onto a stunning panoramic road descending toward the coast. In São Vicente, another hand-picked accommodation right on the water awaits. Grateful for the time we’ve saved, we round off the afternoon with a leisurely walk along the coast.

Nature Shows Its Wild Side

The Paúl da Serra plateau was supposed to be another major highlight of our Madeira tour, but Miguel’s greeting this morning made us sit up and take notice, and as it turned out, he was right. The further our friendly guide drove us into the mountains, the thicker the clouds became and the stronger the wind blew. Once we reached the top, we had a choice: let Miguel drive us directly to our next stop or try to make it on our bikes. We decided to stick with two wheels.

Braving the wind and weather, we fought our way across the plateau alongside a herd of cows. With every mile we got closer to the coast, the weather began to clear, and by the time we reached our destination in Porto Moniz, the sun was shining!

Proud to have conquered the challenge, we treated ourselves to a drink and headed to the spa at the Aqua Natura Bay hotel to unwind. The cherry on top, however, was dinner: we were blown away by both the friendliness of the staff and the exceptional quality of the four-course meal.

Cyclist with panniers on coastal path in Madeira, with green cliffs and Porto Moniz village visible by the ocean under cloudy skies.

The Grand Finale of Our Madeira Cycling Tour

The final leg of our active cycling vacation takes us from Porto Moniz to Calheta. This time, we get to tackle the route straight from our hotel—no transfer needed. Having studied the route book the night before, we knew one thing for sure: this stage would be a challenge. The first few miles lead us steeply uphill and through several mountain villages. As if just for us, the local dogs in these villages line the rooftops like a guard of honor, barking their encouragement as we pass by.

Cyclist with panniers on curved road through eucalyptus forest in Madeira. Dense green vegetation lines the roadside under blue sky.

Once we reach the top, we notice the landscape gradually beginning to change - moving away from the rugged, wild north toward the gentler, calmer south. However, the south still has a few more climbs up its sleeve, ranging from steady pulls to steep inclines. After nearly 1,300 meters (about 4,200 ft) of elevation gain, Calheta finally comes into view below us. The "cool-down" of the ride is a four-mile panoramic road that leads us straight to the coast and an impressive five-star hotel. At Saccharum, we truly want for nothing. Tired but elated, we slip into our bathrobes, stroll down to the private beach bar, and raise a glass to an absolutely perfect cycling vacation.

Normally, the fifth stage from Calheta to Funchal marks the end of the Madeira Loop Tour. However, due to scheduling commitments back home, we had to skip this final leg and our last day in Funchal. At first, we weren’t sure such a customized itinerary was even possible - but for our travel specialist, it was no problem at all. She tailored everything to our individual needs. While adjustments aren’t always offered as a standard option, Eurobike goes above and beyond to make special requests a reality. To top it all off, Miguel even drove us from Calheta to the airport in Funchal on our departure day.

More Impressions of the Tropical Paradise

Cyclist with helmet and yellow panniers standing before a traditional thatched Santana house with red door and blue trim in Madeira.

Female cyclist with yellow panniers on road near Boaventura, Madeira. Mountains, ocean, and scattered houses visible in background under blue sky.

Cyclist in red jacket on swing under sign reading 'I LOVE RIBEIRA DA JANELA' with ocean and green hills in background on Madeira.

Vibrant pink bougainvillea flowers in full bloom at Funchal botanical garden, Madeira, with colorful flower beds visible in the background.

Conclusion

Our cycling tour of Madeira in January was a complete success. Instead of facing freezing temperatures back home, we got to explore this beautiful island in pleasantly mild weather. Thanks to our travel dates, both the roads and the hotels were still relatively quiet, which made the cycling experience even more enjoyable. One thing is certain: Madeira will remain in our fondest memories - whether for the stunning scenery, the friendly locals, or the physical challenge.

My favorite place

It’s hard to pick just one favorite spot; honestly, I’d have to say the whole island is my favorite. From the wild, dense forests and the tiny villages nestled along the shore to the rugged cliffs towering over the Atlantic - this island brings together so much beauty that is truly worth seeing.