Reisebericht: Radreise an Toskanas Küste Eurobike

Arrival in Pisa

I spend the afternoon of my arrival in Pisa - a quiet Sunday - with Simone, a colleague and above all a friend from our Eurobike support team in Tuscany. He’s in Pisa at the moment to welcome guests who are heading out on other tours. As a passionate expert on Tuscany and a true lover of bicycles and long mountain climbs, he provides both me and our guests with all the essential information for the journey - along with valuable insider tips that only someone with his experience could share.

For my tour, I chose a Rental-Plus bike from the Eurobike selection. I’ll admit - during a few of the steeper climbs, I started to rethink that decision. So, here’s my recommendation for anyone who prefers a more leisurely ride: definitely consider an e-bike. Especially on the island of Elba, the longer 33-kilometer route is quite challenging - but absolutely worth the effort, thanks to its spectacular scenery. There’s more about that later.

Cycling the Coastline of Pisa

After an evening in Pisa - a lively university city, also crossed by the Arno like Florence - I wander through the historic center, enjoying its characteristic promenades lined with arcades. The city is rich in ancient buildings, many of medieval origin, and offers a wealth of restaurants, traditional eateries, and fashionable shops. After a hearty breakfast and a cup of coffee, I make my way to the starting point of my tour: the Piazza dei Miracoli, home to the famous Leaning Tower and the Baptistery.

Beneath a brooding sky, I leave the square through the archway, a little hesitant but full of anticipation for my first day on the bike. The first stage is the shortest: just 30 kilometers and the only one that is completely flat. I pedal through the Pisan countryside toward the sea, then follow long, straight roads. On one side, dense pine forests release the scent of resin; on the other, the seaside promenade stretches with intact dunes and sandy paths. Before I know it, I arrive in Viareggio.

Even in October, the sea is still warm, and a swim would be really tempting. But I continue cycling into the heart of Viareggio and onto its famous seaside promenade, renowned for its magnificent Carnival parades and enormous floats. After a short 25-minute train ride, I’m back in Pisa.

Piazza dei Miracoli in Pisa showing the white marble Cathedral with its dome, the famous Leaning Tower, and green lawn under cloudy sky.

Breathtaking Views and the Aromas of the Mediterranean

After spending a second night in Pisa, I set out on the second stage of my tour, heading for Castiglioncello, a charming seaside town in the province of Livorno.

The coastal city of Livorno is known for its shipyards and for hosting one of Italy’s most prestigious naval academies. I content myself with admiring the waterfront promenade - a wide and elegant stretch lined with grand palaces and bathing establishments.

Leaving the seaside promenade behind, the hilly route inland from Livorno begins - the most challenging stage of the tour. A series of climbs and descents comes first, followed by a long downhill stretch leading to Castiglioncello.

The road winds through a natural landscape of dense vegetation: olive trees, oleander, bay laurels, and wildflowers in every color accompany me along the way. I feel as if I am sharing the solitude with nature itself. After a few kilometers, I turn around to take in the panoramic view of the Livorno coast, the Tyrrhenian Sea stretching in the background, framed by dark green hills.

Olive trees on a green hillside in Tuscany with rolling hills and a distant village under a blue sky with white clouds.

In one of the few villages along the way, I stop for a break and discover a small, inviting trattoria - perfect for a passing cyclist. There’s no menu: the owner simply lists a few fish specialties. I immediately decide on spaghetti with seafood, and it turns out to be an excellent choice. Refreshed, I continue on my way.

More than half of the stage is already behind me and now comes the descent into Castiglioncello. The town is dotted with numerous villas, manicured gardens, small shops, and elegant restaurants. Castiglioncello sits atop a high, rugged promontory. Along the winding seaside promenade that follows the cliffs, I savor the last rays of sunlight until the sun finally sinks below the horizon.

The Diversity of the Coastal Landscape

Each day, the stages grow longer, and today I have 50 kilometers ahead of me. I bid farewell to Castiglioncello, a town that will linger in my heart for some time, and cycle along the coast on unpaved, sandy roads, surrounded by dense coastal vegetation: shrubs and plants typical of the area, including glasswort and sea lavender. With so many access points to the beach, I can’t resist a quick break for a swim.

The solitude of an empty beach - with only the sound of the waves, scattered branches and driftwood, and the remnants of yesterday’s surf - makes me feel like a castaway on a deserted island.

After passing Cecina, I leave the coast and head inland. Bolgheri is a picturesque medieval village with winding streets, still a favorite among tourists. A pause for coffee and brioche, along with a leisurely stroll through the village lanes, is simply unavoidable.

From here, I’m not far from my destination: Marina di Castagneto.

Bicycle standing on sandy dunes at Spiagge Bianche beach near Rosignano Solvay. Turquoise sea and blue sky visible in background.

The Unexpected Beauty: The Gulf of Baratti

The fourth stage takes me to Piombino. Right from the start, after leaving Marina di Castagneto behind, a short but steep climb leads up to Castagneto Carducci. From there, the route continues over gentle hills - a constant rhythm of ups and downs through a landscape that feels like a green lung. The vegetation is so lush that on some stretches I ride beneath a dense canopy of leaves, mostly chestnut trees.

After a long descent, I reach the plain and follow a stretch of the state road - the only part of the tour with a little more traffic. Then, almost out of nowhere, the Gulf of Baratti comes into view. The beauty of this place is overwhelming: an untouched pine forest, with a green meadow stretching in places all the way to the sea. The panorama is breathtaking - 360 degrees of nature and history.

This plain is known as the “Etruscan Plain,” and I highly recommend a visit to the archaeological park. The gulf opens like a stage, the water shimmering in a blue reminiscent of a swimming pool. All of it will remain in my heart forever.

Scenic bay Baia del Pozzino near Baratti with turquoise water, rocky coastline, pebble beach, and green hills under blue sky.

The Icing on the Cake

I spend the evening in Piombino, where I will stay for two nights. Until now, I had only known Piombino as a port city. But as I wander through the old town, I discover its unique charm: narrow streets with a medieval layout lead to one of the city’s most striking viewpoints. From a rocky outcrop that feels like a natural balcony, a breathtaking panorama unfolds over the islands of the Tuscan Archipelago: Montecristo, Giglio, Capraia, and even Corsica in the distance.

Narrow street in Suvereto with weathered stone buildings featuring green shutters under a clear blue sky in Tuscany.

Narrow street with rustic stone buildings in Bolgheri, Tuscany. Weathered facades with shuttered windows, climbing vines, and blue sky.

Sandy beach at Tomboli di Cecina nature reserve with driftwood, turquoise sea, and clear blue sky along the Tuscan coast.

Rural cycling path near Bibbona lined with olive trees, green grass, and distant mountains under a blue sky with white clouds.

Gravel road lined with tall cypress trees leading through Tuscan vineyards under blue sky near Castiglioncello and Marina di Castagneto.

The next morning, after a quick breakfast, I make my way to the ferry for Elba. The crossing takes about an hour. The sun is shining, and the temperatures are perfect - ideal conditions for the most exciting stage of the tour. According to the schedule, there are two options: a shorter route or a longer, more challenging one. Naturally, I choose the longer route, eager to explore as much of the island as possible.Along the way, countless swimming spots tempt me: dreamlike beaches and hidden coves, the sea shimmering in deep blue and still pleasantly warm. A gentle breeze accompanies me throughout the ride.

Cycling along the coast, I enjoy spectacular views on both the outbound and return legs. From the highest point of the route, a full 360° panorama unfolds - truly unforgettable. At the end of the tour, I take a leisurely stroll along the seaside promenade in Portoferraio before catching the last ferry back to Piombino.

Padulella Beach on Elba with turquoise water, white rocky shore, and mountains in the distance under a blue sky with white clouds.

Aerial view of Procchio Bay on Elba with turquoise water, sandy beach, coastal village with red-roofed houses, and green hills in the background.

White limestone cliffs at Punta Capo Bianco on Elba island with green pine trees and turquoise Mediterranean Sea under dramatic cloudy sky.

View of Piombino harbor with cruise ship and boats in turquoise water. Historic town and fortress visible on hillside under blue sky.

My Favorite Spot

My favorite place is the Gulf of Baratti - a magical beach that never fails to enchant me. You might think you’d have to take a plane and cross an ocean to find a dreamlike shore. Yet, as an Italian, I’ve discovered that real gems can be found much closer to home.

Cyclist sitting on grass beside touring bike, overlooking the blue sea at Baratti bay. Green grass in foreground, calm water and coastline visible.

Travel Story: Tuscan Coast